My childhood dream should come true: a visit with the mountain gorillas in the East African mountain forests. I have longed for such an encounter for so long, the anticipation was immense. As part of an exclusive trip with Topi-Tours, a stay in the far southwest of Uganda, in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park, was planned. In the small village on the edge of the protected area, it is not difficult to see which animal is the absolute "star" here. It seems that every lodge has the word "Gorilla" in its name, and everywhere you can find corresponding souvenirs. The gorillas are everywhere. But would I actually get to see them?
Special gorilla treks are offered for this. Such a guided tour is not exactly a bargain. 600 dollars costs a "permit", i.e. the permission to visit these hairy relatives. This initially seems like a lot. But this includes not only the entrance fee but also the expert guidance by a guide, the accompanying and securing by armed rangers, and the ability to read tracks, which look for the gorilla families in advance.
This contribution not only secures the preservation of the protected area, but also the existence of many families. Their economic situation would be completely different without the many well-paid jobs in the national park and in the surrounding tourism. Protected areas not only preserve threatened species, but also provide a sustainable livelihood for people in the immediate vicinity.
In the early morning, we set off. With around 50 other guests, we gather in the National Park center and listen to an introduction. We are told to maintain a respectful distance from the gorillas and to stay together in the group. The contact is limited to half an hour, so that the wild forest dwellers are not too disturbed by our presence. And even though some of the gorilla families are used to contact with humans and no longer shy away, a precautionary measure is essential: wearing hygiene masks. Our close relatives could become infected with human viruses such as influenza and die, because their immune system is not adapted to it.
After the groups have been divided, we prepare to set off. We are to be formed into teams of up to ten people, depending on a rough assessment of physical fitness. I seem to have ended up in the group with the longest and steepest route.
Firstly, a longer walk through a magnificent and lush tropical rainforest. Huge trees, up to the highest levels covered with vegetation. Dense vegetation on the ground, green in all shades, leaves in all conceivable shapes. In addition, bird sounds like from another world. I am completely hypnotized. Then a rather steep ascent begins - and I realize why we have been divided into groups. My team is a rather fit and internationally mixed group: a family from the USA, the son of a mountain guide, the parents are the owners of a fitness studio, a young couple from the Netherlands, who have already traveled all over the world, plus two Italians who seem very interested in nature - and me, with my camera equipment and a telescope. But for extended bird watching, the right time is not yet, we have to go up the mountain. Because there, at the top, is the actual goal of our day: a family of mountain gorillas.
As the guide tells us, it is the group that is already most used to humans - for over 20 years. When we arrive, I realize how great it is to have been assigned to this demanding trek. Because as we reach a small clearing in the thicket, we see them: a large family of mountain gorillas with about a dozen females and young, and of course a powerful silverback. He is sitting at the edge of the scene, apparently disinterestedly chewing on a few twigs. But with his occasional checking look, he keeps everything very closely under observation. If a disturbance or even danger occurs, he would be immediately at the ready as the "bodyguard" of his family. That is why our "bodyguards" remind us that we should behave and keep our distance.
We crouch down and observe our hairy relatives. Some are feeding and eating leaves, buds or sucking on sugar cane. Some of the younger ones are playing and frolicking. Others are resting and dozing - a clear sign of trust towards us human visitors. But the greatest trust should come later.
Some members of the family move through the vegetation. At some places, with dense bushes, it is not so easy to follow their movements, let alone take good photos. But every now and then you can see a head through the dense foliage, and some beautiful portraits are possible.
And then something completely unusual happens: A small gorilla cub comes up to me, stands in front of me, grabs my trouser leg and looks at me - as if it wants to say: come, play with me! Our guide turns pale. He starts waving his hands nervously and wants the little one to come closer. His fear is that the "boss" might intervene. I look at the gorilla cub and tell it to go away. It lets go of my trousers and disappears into the thicket. What a moment! Direct contact with humans is extremely rare. Normally, the gorillas keep their distance. Most of them observe the visitor groups that appear once a day for half an hour and then disappear back into the forest. We humans are neither a threat nor particularly interesting. We are simply there, making silly noises and smelling a little strangely.
And suddenly we experience something really special, perhaps the proof that this group trusts us humans absolutely. One of the females, who has been sitting quietly with her back to us, turns around and lifts her arm. We see a tiny gorilla baby, peeking out from under its mother's arm. It is so small that it can barely hold its wobbly head. What a magical moment!
Even the tough men among us have glassy eyes. We manage to get a few glimpses of the little one and enjoy this absolute highlight of our tour for a while. Then we start to go back. We will all never forget this day, this half hour, these moments. It could not have been more perfect for my "birthday party" with the relatives.
